
Waterfall, Japanese Garden, Portland, Oregon
Canon 30D, 17-40 f/4, ISO: 100, aperture: f/22, shutter: 3.2 seconds, filter: circular polarizer, tripod: yes, cable release: yes
Yesterday’s post was about using a slow shutter speed to blur water movement. Today’s photo is another example of that. This time the shutter was 3.2 seconds. To get the right exposure at ISO 100 and keep the 3.2 shutter speed, I had to use f/22, the smallest aperture for this lens. f/22 also yields the maximum depth of field, which is usually desireable for a landscape photo, especially if there is something in the foreground that you want to be in focus. There are other considerations… every lens has a sweet spot that provides the ‘best’ overall edge to edge picture quality. The general rule of thumb, for the sweet spot, is 2 stops down from maximum aperture. For this lens, 2 stops down from f/4 is f/8. So, in theory, f/8 would yield the best overall photo. I could have got to f/8 by using a faster shutter speed, but would have lost the blurred water. Another consideration is the depth of field. f/8 would yield a shallower depth of field than f/22, which would have been fine for this photo since nothing is in the close foreground. So you have options to get to the sweet spot and maintain a slow shutter speed… 1) come back when there is less available light so a larger aperture setting can be used at the same shutter speed (not always possible). 2) use a lower ISO setting (not possible with this camera, 100 is minimum). 3) use a neutral density (ND) filter to reduce the light entering the lens…. which gets me to the point of this post. Lesson learned: when working around water, especially at midday when ambient light is usually the brightest, a ND filter is very handy. Unfortunately I left mine at home.